So You Think You Know….. Riesling!

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©Wines of Germany

In 2019, Wines of Germany declared March 13th as International Riesling Day, referencing the date when first written evidence on the grape was found in 1435. Originating from the Rhine, Riesling is planted in almost one-quarter of Germany’s 100,000 hectares of vineyards, including the Mosel, Rheingau and Pfalz regions.

Beyond Germany, the grape has attained much interest in many cool to moderate climate regions across the world, especially France (especially Alsace), Austria, USA (the Finger Lakes in New York and Washington), Australia (especially Eden Valley and Clare Valley) and New Zealand.

While many wine professionals and well-versed wine enthusiasts revere Riesling for its distinctive and diverse flavour and structural profile, versatility, and ageability, it continues to be largely misunderstood by the global consumer. Riesling’s popularity peaked in the mid-1980s through low-quality sweetened Liebfraumilch (semi-sweet) wines popularized by Blue Nun, Black Tower and Schmitt Sohne. However, many are largely unaware of the mid-1990s renaissance which saw vineyard management and winemaking techniques improve significantly.

Here are three reasons why Riesling is highly sought-after by the more informed and sophisticated palates:

Flavour and Structural Profile

Riesling is a cold-hardy, aromatic white grape variety which generally produces wines with distinctive floral and fruity aromas and high acidity. The specific fruit flavours vary according to the ripeness of the grapes at the time of harvest, ranging from green fruit (apple, pear) and citrus (lime, grapefruit) in just-ripe grapes, stone (peach, apricot) and tropical (mango, pineapple) fruit and sometimes even dried fruit (dried apricot, raisins) in extra-ripe grapes.

One of Riesling’s most remarkable features is its ability to reflect ‘terroir’- the characteristics of the soil, climate and vineyard site where it’s grown. This provides an additional layer of minerality, complexity and expression along with the aforementioned characteristics.

Versatility

Riesling is capable of producing quality still and sparkling (Sekt) wines in a full range of styles, bone-dry (kabinett), off-dry, medium and sweet, light to full in body. In regions with dry, sunny autumn conditions, grapes can be left on the vine and concentrated by late-harvesting (spätlese and auslese), through the effect of botrytis/noble rot (beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese), or by freezing them (eiswein). Riesling’s high natural acidity is perfect for balancing the high levels of sweetness found in even the most lusciously sweet wines.

Ageability

Many Rieslings are made for consumption in their youth, where fresh floral and fruit flavours and high acidity are preserved. The finest Rieslings can age gracefully for years or even decades, developing complex tertiary aromas and flavours (especially of honey and petrol), along with increased depth and richness, over time!

Consider the 1989 P. Licht Bergweiler Erben Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese pictured below! The nose was an intoxicating mix of dried Jasmine flowers and Love’s Baby Soft (a perfume from the 1990s!), poached pear and dried apricot with whiffs of petrol. The palate was opulent with juicy ripe and dried fruit graciously supported by lively, racy acidity and a full body, the flavours and acidity persisting through a long (and exquisite) finish. This thirty-four-year-old wine was proof-positive that Riesling can age with grace and elegance!

Added bonus? Riesling is the PERFECT Food Pairing! 

Drier styles pair well with a wide range of foods, from cheeses, seafood to poultry, while sweeter styles pair well with spicy dishes including Asian and Indian cuisines and desserts.