Rosé: More than ‘Pale and Pretty’!

Let’s Talk Rosé!! 

I vaguely remember when pale pink rosés first became fashionable, about fifteen years or so ago! Still living in Barbados at the time, many tourists (notably the British) craved this lighter-bodied, refreshing and easier-drinking style of wine to quench their thirsts while on the beach or at a seaside restaurant! Over time, the requests for these wines grew and became more and more specific, with the greatest demand for light-pink or pale salmon-coloured wines in the most beautiful bottles. Taste profile was not the greatest concern as long as the wine’s hue was pale (the paler, the better!) and the bottle was pretty!

I really thought the trend of drinking ‘pale and pretty’ rosés, transplanted from the warm and balmy summer days in the South of France, would subside……. Alas, here we are in 2023 and the demand for, and consumption of rosés continues, accounting for around nine percent of global still wine consumption (*2). In 2019 (*1), the biggest rosé-producing countries were France (34%), Spain (23%), the US (17%) and Italy (10%). The top 5 rosé markets (*2) are France (19%) followed by Germany (12%), the U.S. (11%) and then the U.K. and Italy. And, of course, it all started with the Côtes de Provence!

Provençal rosé is definitely a quaffable and approachable style that anyone can easily enjoy; from its light- to medium-intensity aromas and flavours of red fruits and citrus with herbal notes, sometimes with a touch of minerality and/or spice. The vibrant acidity and moderate alcohol together make this style very refreshing and more-ish. It’s trendy pale hue of pink or salmon is due to the relatively low level of colour in the skins of the common black grape varieties of the region- Grenache Noir, Cinsault and Tibouren. The other key varieties in the South of France are Mourvèdre and Syrah and, sometimes, small amounts (up to 20% is allowed by AOC (*3) regulations though typically less than 10% are often used) of white varieties such as Rolle (Vermentino) and Clairette are added.

The ever-desired pale hue of Provençal-style rosé has significantly impacted rosé production in many regions around the world, sometimes using the same grape varieties as approved in this French region. Considering the number of black and grey grape varietals used, the colour, flavours and structures of this style are a function of the rosé production process. There are three main methods of rosé production, though direct pressing or by short maceration/soaking (a few hours) of the black or grey (think Pinot Gris/Grigio) grape varieties are the most commonly used.

With Direct Pressing, grapes are de-stemmed or maintained as whole bunches upon arrival in the cellar, and are gently pressed to extract free-run juice. This process reduces the interaction of grape skins with the grape must, allowing for the best aromas to be extracted from the grapes without having to extract too much colour and polyphenolic substances such as tannins and antioxidants. This technique can produce rosés that are the lightest in colour

In the Short Maceration process, grapes are de-stemmed and pressed, and the skins and must are allowed contact time for up to a few hours before fermentation begins. The longer the maceration (or soaking), the more colour, flavour and polyphenolic substances will be extracted. This technique often, but not always, produces rosé wines that are deeper in colour and more pronounced in flavour than those from direct pressing. The Saignée Method is an extension of the red wine production process, which involves maceration to acquire the various hues of final red. Saignée requires the removal or ‘bleeding’ of some of the red wine early in the maceration process to be separately vinified as a rosé.

Either production process can be controlled to ensure the perfect hue of pink is attained, though it is essential to remember that during fermentation, filtration and refinement, the intensity of the rosé colour does decrease. The third method is simple and inexpensive, and involves the blending of a small proportion of red wine with white wine. Blending is the least popular production process, as it is not allowed in many geographical indications within Europe (though it is in Champagne!) and is perceived to lower the quality of rosé production in many regions.

It's great to have an easy, breezy and beautiful chilled rosé wine on a warm and balmy day, but there is an ever-increasing demand for those with darker pink and pale red hues, more obvious and heightened characters from the black (and grey) grape varieties they were produced from, and a little ‘savoir-faire!’ There is nothing wrong with a darker-hued rosé; just think of the heightened intensity aromas and flavours, the additional texture and overall complexity that it can offer, and the amazing pairings that can be realized as a result (especially for tomato-based and rich, flavourful meat dishes)! You can even find these styles in Côte de Provence, as some are produced with darker hues, greater aroma and flavour complexity and some are matured in barrels!

There are so many different styles of rosé/rosato/rosado produced around the world that can satisfy the wine professional and enthusiast’s palates. Let’s explore some of the world’s favourites!

In Italy, rosatos range from Chiaretto di Bardolino in the Veneto, Cerasuolo d’ Abruzzo made from the Montepulciano grape, Rosato di Sangiovese in Tuscany, Campania Rosato from the Aglianico grape through to Cerasuolo di Vittoria from Sicily (a blend of Frappato and Nero d’Avola).

Spain produces myriad rosados from Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mencía and Monastrell (also known as Mourvèdre) amongst other black grape varietals though Txakolina Rosado from the Basque Country is quite dynamic, offering amazing acidity, minerality, salinity and a gentle effervescence that make one’s palate salivate. Listán Negro Rosados rosados produced in The Canary Islands are quite similar to Txakolina rosados, though the volcanic soils of the terroir add a unique layer of smoky minerality!

When thinking of American rosés, venture into the less-obvious such as Chambourcin-based wines produced in Virginia, or New York State’s Saperavi-based styles (the Finger Lakes), which are often fruit-driven and balanced with refreshing acidity. For a treat, try a Merlot/Cabernet Franc-based rosé from Long Island and be pleasantly surprised by the sapidity and minerality that speaks to the terroir.

And if you wish to stay in France, feel free to styles from other regions across the country, starting in the North with delicious Cabernet Franc and/or Grolleau-based rosés such as Rosé d’Anjou from the Loire Valley or Pinot Noir-based Sancerre rosés. In the South, you can also enjoy a Mourvèdre-dominant Bandol or the infamous Tavel!

Whatever you do this Summer (and beyond), be encouraged to try and embrace rosés of all hues, aromas, flavours and textures!!

FOOTNOTES

*1 Source- Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins de Provence.

*2 Source- IWSR Drinks Market Analysis.

*3 AOC. Formulated in 1919 and finalized in 1934, Appellation d’Origine Controllée laws incorporate a range of factors into a single, comprehensive classification system to ensure that Producers wishing to use a certain name for their wine follows a certain set of rules in making the product(s). On a wine label, AOC indicates the geographical origin, quality and (generally) the style of a wine.